I wanted to share my experience of filtration for my plywood aquarium build. 

Filtration is the key to keeping an aquarium clean as well as overall health conditions for your fish.  Read more to find out what I did.

For a couple of years I have had Mbuna's.  They can be pretty dirty when you overcrowd them as I have done.  I have steered clear of Sump pumps or wet/dry filtration.  The fear stems from power outages that could keep water from draining dry and over flowing in to your sump, leaving your fish with out water.

I have asked many times about this and never understood it when it's been explained in writing on forums to me.   I'm not an engineer and talking about it to where I understood the jargon is pretty difficult when it's been explained.   I was debating about filtration on the aquarium.  Sponge filters, H.O.B., Canister, sump or wet/dry.  I was going to keep it simple and do sponge filters.   I thought I could do a HOB as well if needed.  Canister filters is what I have been using in past.  They tend to be a pain due to taking them apart cleaning/ reloading / lubing the seal and closing the top down again.  It seems like a lot of work.  I wasn't down with dealing with it.  I was skeptical of sponge filters too as I can't see them cleaning the aquarium efficiently.  

I wanted to attempt a sump pump.  I approached none other then “The Fish Guy” (TFG).  He directed me to a DIY section with a diagram.  Upon seeing the diagram I understood it about 80%.  I went and changed his design because his aquarium had an overflow.  I didn't build an overflow on my aquarium.  The trick to building the sump filtration is all in the plumbing.  The key to a sump pump has 2 factors:  If your power goes out your sump  needs to be able to hold the draining of the aquarium in to the sump, and it must maintain your water equilibrium.

I decided to keep it simple and do as suggested drilling 2 bulkheads.  One at the top near the waterline and the other where I wanted to have an automatic water change height.  It's easy to do water changes if all you have to do is hook up a garden hose and turn a valve.  I don't ever have to guess what level I am dropping the water to as it's going to be the same height all the time.    To keep it simple I used 2” drain bulkheads.  These are easily found at any hardware store.   

I put the drain bulkheads through the holes.  I used silicone to seal them as a precaution.  I reduced the sump drain line to 1” and the water change to 3/4” immediately.  I then put a valve on the drain line and then a fitting to where all I have to do is hook a garden hose up to drain the aquarium. 

On the 1” drain line output I installed  a T leading to the sump.  The upper portion of the “T” is called a vent braking the seal of the drain line.   I probably didn't need it, but it does help drain is what I was told.  

I put 27” of PVC pipe and  installed an elbow.  I ran 10” in to the sump container.  Any rubbermaid container will work for a sump as long as it is large.  The larger the rubbermaid container, the better water quality you will have.  I put in some Texas Holey Rocks for my beneficial bacteria.  I put a container filled with batting that the PVC pipe water flows in to.   I put the 400GPH sump pump in  and ran plumbing up to the tank top where it will flow back in to the aquarium.  I just am putting it up over the edge.  Nothing fancy here.  Some might want to put a length of PVC pipe with holes drilled in so it trickles in to the aquarium rather then a stream from the PVC pipe.

When all the plumbing is finished this is the understanding you will see from the work.  Fill the aquarium up with water.  When the water level starts to drain into the sump, Stop.  Fill the sump completely full with water.  When the sump is full you may turn on the sump pump.  What will happen is your sump will fill your aquarium, raising the water level above the sump drain line, causing it to flow back to the sump.  In this way equilibrium between the aquarium and the sump is achieved.   On mine the 1” reducer hole has about 1/16” water over the top.   It doesn't suck any air down the hole from inside the aquarium.   The air vent at the “T” does suck air down the tube.  At 1” it's plenty of flow with out being restricted.  What goes in must come out at some rate within reason.  Since I just have a small pump and the equilibrium is balanced very well. 

Since your sump drain is at the top of your water level, the aquarium cannot drain back into the sump basin in the event of a power failure.  Because your aquarium is being supplied with fresh water from the sump, it will not overflow if the power goes out.  This is the fail proof way to understand why the sump can't overflow in a power failure.  

I learned that whereever you want your waterline you'll need to drill your bulkhead hole because the water will be about 1/16” above that line.  In 24 hours I decided to ditch my floss that had filtered out the sand particles and put new floss inside.  

Sumps are so easy to understand if you follow the above.  I choose not to purchase bio balls at $20 for a gallon of them.  I just am fine with using TX Holey Rocks for beneficial bacteria.  Less cost and keeping things simple.

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Thanks,

Zak White
Owner